Breaking waves typically take on one of three forms. These forms are surging, spilling, and plunging. Surging waves come in out of deep waters onto steep beaches. Instead of breaking, these waves will surge on up to the beach. This can happen during high tide when the profile of the beach is too steep that it does not allow the wave to break properly.

Breaking Waves

Spilling waves are produced when the sea floor has a gentle slope, causing the wave to gradually peak. The energy released from this type of wave is quite slow, thus the crest just spills down the face of the wave. Finally, plunging waves occur when a swell moves out of deep water and into shallow water. This hinders the wave’s forward momentum, creating a peak which then jacks up to throw out the lip and forming a tube.